Thursday, 10 May 2012

時尚觀點大不同


中國崛起後, 內地人對時尚趨之若騖, 人人熱烈談論時尚歷史、趨勢、設計師作品 …… 說得瑯瑯上口, 好像統統是資深時尚達人, 但通常一碰面, 發覺他們不止不在圈子內連資深消費者也不是, 時尚知識原來都是從網絡得來, 連實物也沒看過, 更遑論切身感受。為了捍衛專業地位, 內地行內人又統統愛強調須有個人的時尚觀點, 口徑之統一, 果然是萬眾一心、和諧社會! 教我這個貨真價實的資深時尚達人霎時間摸不著頭腦, 反問自己的時尚觀點是什麼 ......

由來不同人在不同位置看同一事物都會產生不同的觀點。作為一位消費者, 我最關注是產品的款式、品質、售價和服務, 消費滿多少開始有折扣和禮品回贈, 其他什麼品牌故事、設計靈感等統統是廢話!不信? 你買東西的時候, 若有人在旁邊嘮嘮叼叼, 對你進行品牌洗腦教育看你會怎樣?

當然作為媒體人最喜歡聽品牌的故事和設計師的創作靈感, 不然哪有東西可寫? 而一向以沒有立場和觀點的香港時尚媒體其實也有觀點, 便是鼓吹盲目消費, 以產品目錄冊的形式吸引消費者注重產品外觀和售價的心理。不過, 我主管雜誌時尚版時還是很有夢想和理想, 希望打造立足本土、放眼國際而有原創性的時裝聖經, 而不是那些外文翻譯, 以及從外國雜誌上看到了什麼便據為己有, 像坊裡般圍觀式報導和評論, 又或抄襲外國時裝大片的主題和拍攝手法。所以, 90年代中期開創了國際時裝周實況報導的先河;十多年前英國時裝設計師在國際時尚界勢如破竹, 相繼領軍法國大品牌時, 我會帶著攝影師親赴倫敦進行採訪, 探究英國時裝設計師崛起的原因。注重how and why 而不是報導表面現象的what and when才是fashion journalism 的精髓。而由how and why 層層推進加上多方引証和分析才能立論和產生專業觀點。

不過, 如果作為一位生意人, 看時尚則必然是從商業角度出發, 最關注成本和利潤, 如何成功經營一個品牌, 在市場競爭對手中突圍而出, 美國WWD 便是行內生意人的聖經, 報導的重點是在品牌的營銷策略和運作。

無論是時裝消費者、媒體人還是生意人, 我現在和過去也曾是, 你想我以什麼觀點看時尚? 此刻我最有興趣研究和撰寫的是“從鴉片戰爭到21世紀國際大品牌對東方的經濟侵略和文化霸權”、“奢華時裝秀和派對背後的商業計算 ----- 微觀剖析成本與媒體報導價值的比例, 宏觀看品牌認知度及銷售的增幅” …… 但會有品牌提供這樣的資料, 以及有媒體讓我這樣立論述說嗎?

( Janice Wong 微博: http://weibo.com/janicewong)


原文刊於香港晴報 5/10, 博客版經增删

2 comments:

  1. Dear Janice,
    I have noticed the quality decline in mid-range brands and high-end brands.

    I have found out that many brands have lowered the quality of their products. For example, shoes, I think that usually a pair of Ferragamo shoes comes with leather soles but today i went there and they are of rubber soles. The price remains the same. Now it's very difficult to find clothes made of natural fibers such as pure cotton or silk. The price keeps climbing. I cant seem to find clothes/shoes with good quality and reasonable prices.

    The declined quality in products does not affect the sales at all. I went to TST and witnessed the shopping spree of people from mainland. They really did not seem to pay attention to the quality at all. They observed the other shoppers and just grabbed the same colours and styles of items of local shoppers.

    I feel so bad about this. Do I really need to turn to vintages when it comes to quality clothes/shoes? I really disagree with the mass productions in clothes.

    Janice, where is this craziness heading to?

    Regards,
    Felicity--the girl who loves hand fans.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Brands spend lots of money on adv & marketing, so retail price keeps climbing. We can't do anything on it. Don't feel upset. Just be a wise consumer to invest in evergreen classic products ^.^

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